Comparison of the predicted and the observed wave spectral parameters during the storms at Filyos coasts, The Southwestern Black Sea

Abstract

In-situ wave measurement data are mainly used to validate the bulk wave parameters predicted by numerical models. Although the frequently used third-generation wave models are spectral models, determination of various spectral parameters and validation with the observed data are not common. This study covers the spectral analysis of selected storm records of a nearshore wave measurement campaign carried out at Filyos coasts with the complex bottom topography in Turkey, Southwestern Black Sea. The bulk wave and the spectral parameters are also calculated by a third-generation nearshore wave model, SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), forced by the ERA5 offshore wave data, which is the newest re-analysis of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) for the selected storms. Before using ERA5 offshore wave data, they are calibrated by the wave data of the satellite radar altimeter. In-situ measured bathymetry data are used in the SWAN model. Observed and predicted bulk wave and spectral parameters are compared, and the statistical error measures are calculated not only for the significant wave height, the peak period, and the peak wave direction but also for the three different spectral periods, three different frequency width parameters, a directional width and, a spectral peakedness parameter for the first time. Low values of statistical error measures show that the current wave predictions have a good agreement with the observed ones in terms of the significant wave height, Hs, and the peak period, Tp. However, the SWAN model predicts a slightly narrower frequency and directional spectrum with higher peaks, although the error measures are low. Moreover, SWAN can not predict the wide range of spectral shape occurrences that the observed spectra have. The development of the various spectral parameters during the storms is also investigated for the first time. It is found that the frequency and directional spreading of the observed spectra become wider and unsharpened in the late stages of the storm compared to the early stages. However, the same tendency is not observed clearly in the predicted directional spreading